In Pursuit of Red Gold: Saffron

From the Earth it was born

First, it is a strikingly rare color, draped in a certain elegance. A delicate flower from which one manages—from the crocus—to separate the pistil and extract its quintessence: saffron. Cultivated in large quantities abroad, French saffron fields are rare, not to say marginal. Yet, in Saint Pierre de Belleville, in the heart of the Hurtières massif (Maurienne Valley), Cécile Berlioz tirelessly and passionately cultivates this natural caviar.

Imported mainly from India, Iran, or Spain, the flower, fragile in appearance, can withstand a wide range of temperatures and adapts perfectly to the mountain climate. So, since 2011, at the Berlioz family estate, before the sun gets too close to Earth, they are busy—between October and November—harvesting the plant’s blood-red stigmas. Thus, it is estimated that a minimum of 180,000 crocus flowers are needed to produce 1 kg of dried saffron. This meticulous, attentive cultivation effort dictates the life of the estate. From planting to harvesting, mechanical automation has no place in this rhythmic process. And for good reason: the hand that guides the action must be supple and patient. Red Gold is so named because it is the result of precious expertise, the passionate culmination of a long and arduous labor.

Red Gold

There was a time when saffron was thought to come exclusively from abroad. It was believed that in France, in our own regions, we either couldn’t or didn’t know how to cultivate this noble product, so essential to a cook’s palate. Its cost, in terms of time and effort, is high, which explains the gradual decline in its French cultivation. This has increased the product’s rarity while simultaneously enhancing its quality. Now, the plant is harvested exclusively by a small circle of true enthusiasts.

Saffron has always been present, its benefits accompanying civilizations and generations, both for its flavor and its antioxidant properties. While its French origins are not widely known, numerous writings mention it, as evidenced by the recipes for various specialties from the Savoy region. From one valley to another, its diverse uses in dishes and delicacies are particularly interesting.

The gentle embrace of a remarkable taste

Reintroduced thanks to the meticulous work of Cécile Berlioz, who brought forth the organic saffron of Les Hurtières from her family estate, the spice has regained its former glory in the mountain soil. And, for this glory to be transformed into genuine sensory experiences, it is up to the chefs to delicately perfect this gift of nature. Among them is Jean Sulpice, a native of Aix-les-Bains. He recounts:

“Being from Savoy, I was completely unaware that saffron was produced in this region. Cécile came to see me to explain the work and dedication required to cultivate this Red Gold. I was struck by her admiration for this commitment to reviving this rare flower, which perfectly complements my culinary world. Today, it’s one of those spices I’m proud to use. It’s often associated with savory dishes, especially seafood. Personally, I prefer using it in sweets, where I can bring back traditional recipes from our region. I also enjoy rediscovering some of them, with a touch of naiveté. Take the Baise-Coing, for example, a saffron biscuit from the Arve Valley. When it’s well-made, it’s like a comforting hug. This spice…” It opens up wonderfully sweet dimensions, and when you make a custard tart and incorporate it into the cream, the sweetness becomes all-encompassing.

From Rissoles (a Savoyard specialty) to Saffron Crème Brûlée, in Chef Jean Sulpice’s world, Crocus Sativus holds a place of honor. This spice is a specific, high-quality variety, strong, with a pronounced flavor that pairs wonderfully with passion fruit or, more simply, with chocolate. A certain nobility emanates from it, due to its rare flavor and its iconic history—in France—paving the way for a triumphant return to the Alpine regions.